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Newest Camera From Nikon With Movie Recording And 26x Optical Zoom Features To Produce Better Result.

March 14th, 2010 TommyJims No comments

Do you ever feel disappointed with the results of the blurred image when capturing important moments that can not be repeated again caused by slight hand movements when taking pictures ? Now you don’t have to worry anymore. Because Image sensor shift and Electronic VR (Vibration Reduction) in this CoolpixP100 will compensating the effects of camera shake to produce sharper results and contribute to a more reassuring shooting experience.
We understand that all you need is simpicity without sacrificing quality. Whether you’re a novice or an expert in photography, you will not get much trouble producing high quality pictures using Nikon P100. It has been equipped with many features to simplify your work.
If you want to know more about this excellent camera you can visit nikon coolpix p100 to get more information. We provided you there some basic information can be used to give you deeper insight about the features in this camera.

One interesting feature in this camera is high-definition movie recording. You can shoot up to two hours in full HD movies with stereo sound. This stereo sound is possible to be produced because there is a stereo microphone optimally mounted on top of the camera to accurately captures audio. One more thing about this feature : you can play it back in slow motion or fast motion with the help of the HS movie function. Isn’t it fun? You can see your funny scene recorded in the camera over and over again with slow motion mode. Fun time to be experienced with your friends that not every camera has the feature.

Smart Portrait System with Skin Softening feature is also one of the feature you can use frequently. The Skin Softening function ensures smooth skin tone on the face of subjects by leveraging built-in face-detection technology. Automatically detecting as many as 12 faces in the shot, Face-priority AF helps produce satisfying portraits by adjusting focus and exposure. Smile Timer helps to faithfully record precious moments by automatically releasing the shutter when the subject smiles. Blink Warning alerts the photographer when it suspects that a subject has blinked, while the Blink Proof function shoots five sequential frames, then saves the one in which the subject’s eyes are wide open. In-Camera Red-Eye Fix Red-Eye Fix automatically corrects perceived red-eye effect before saving the image to memory. Useful and powerful function, right? Well, you have to experience it by yourself to believe.

Image sensor shift and Electronic VR (Vibration Reduction) frees you to enjoy capturing special moments without worrying about slight hand movements. Another useful function, if you ask my opinion. We frequently experienced shooting an important moment with blurred result because we cannot held our hands steady enough when the shooting is take place. Learn more about this feature and another useful feature in coolpix 100.

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The Camera Of My Dreams (But Know What You’re Buying)

March 10th, 2010 TommyJims No comments

Nikon D300s 12MP CMOS Digital SLR Camera (Body Only)
Hello everybody, My name is Daniel and I am about as serious as you can be and still be considered “amateur”. I have been taking photos on SLR’s since I was 10 years old on an old film Minolta and I bought my first DSLR (a Nikon D50) and since then I have owned everything from a base line Canon XSi all the way up to the the best camera I have ever handled… the D300s. I have operated the D3, D3s, D3x and the top of the line professional $10k Canons, and this is still my favorite ALL AROUND camera. So here is the break down to why I love this camera and I will give you a list of pros and cons. I love this camera for many reasons… [...]… not many people can justify spending another $4,000 (2-3 times the money) when they are looking to spend around $1,500- $2,000 for a good DSLR. So here is the benefits that I see to D300s over the other great Nikon models.

1. if you are into sports the D300s has a higher continuous frame rate than other models including the ever so popular full frame D700. With it’s DX sensor it has a crop factor of 1.5 which means more bang for you buck when using a telephoto zoom lens. If you purchase the MB-D10 battery pack it will shoot at even higher speeds of 8fps when using continuous shooting and also allows for up to nearly 5,000 pictures to be taken on one charge (when upgraded battery is purchased). With 51 auto-focus and 3-D tracking you are almost guaranteed to have your subject in focus every time you take a picture. The D300s also features Active D Lighting which makes to so your pictures end up properly exposed so you don’t end up with areas of under and over exposure which tend to be common in sports and in shadowy landscape photography

2. Freedom: although all Nikon DSLR’s allow you to manually adjust your settings they are difficult to change until you get to the semi-pro D300 model. If you understand f-stops, DOF, aperture, shutter speed, ISO, focus points, light metering and other technical jargon and really want to experiment with all of these then a D300s is the camera for you. with shooting modes including: single, cont. low speed, high speed, timer, quiet, and mirror up mode this camera gives you all the freedom you could ever ask for.

3. Learning: this camera will make you learn the true in’s and out’s of photography. With the very accurate light meter it’s not very hard to get the exposure right. No matter what your ISO and f stop is at.

4. User interface. With the dedicated live view and info button new to the D300s over the original D300 it cuts menu times down significantly however it no longer has the memory card hatch release switch. The D300s includes great features such as custom menus, easy to understand menus with the classic (?) button which will explain every camera function in easy to understand terms. On the fly changes include ISO, WB, Quality, shooting modes, a user adjusted fn button, AF/AE lock, light metering, and af adjustments. So the only limitations are your imagination. Selecting your focal point is as easy as looking in the viewfinder and pushing the directional button and watching the selector move around until you have exactly the right spot selected. With two selectors (one for shutter speed and one for f stop) it allows you to never have to take your eye out out of the viewfinder.

The bottom line (why you would choose this over any other Nikon DSLR):
why you’d choose this over the D90: 51point AF w/ 3D tracking, more fps, control of image adjustments, not much more money for a lot more freedom and creativity, contrast auto-focusing during movies, ability to utilize dual card slots (CF and SD), 14bit RAW, Active D Lighting.

Over the D700: full 12MP when using DX lenses rather than 5MP, more fps, $600-$1,000 less, movie mode, smaller pixels for more refinement at low ISO, 100% viewfinder coverage

Over the D3 and D3x: A ton of money, shooting speed, optimization of DX and FX lenses and movie mode, and built in flash, 100% viewfinder coverage which allows for better framing.

This is a great camera HOWEVER NOTE THE FOLLOWING!!!!!

The D700, D3,x,s have FX photo sensors which allow for a much bigger and brighter view finder, it also allows for a wider view (no crop factor instead of 1.5x like the DX) which means if you want more area in your pictures for such things as landscapes then the D700 or the D3 lineup maybe a better option because a 50mm lens in a DX camera looks the same as a 75mm lens on an FX camera.

The D700 and D3 lineup (minus the D3x) utilize the large FX sensor and still only have a 12MP capacity which means that the pixels are larger which allows for better depth of color, better definition in shadows, and better high ISO clarity. The D300 can go to extended ISO of 6400 however the image quality is poor at best when the D3 can shoot ISO 6400 all day long and look great. The D700 also does better at high ISOs than the D300 does because it has the same sensor as the D3 however the D3 still does better than the D700 at extreme ISOs. However also consider the fact that the smaller the image sensor the larger the depth of field so the D700 and the D3 are better for macro or portrait photography and the D300 will give you a larger DOF equivalent to about one f-stop.

THIS IS NOT A VIDEO CAMERA video is pretty good and the utilization of lenses is a great feature however if you want good video spend the money on a video camera. Even a Flip HD does better. The camera produces good video but it doesn’t do well during panning if you plan on putting the camera on a tripod and filming then by all means its fine and with the option for an external mic to give you stereo sound is nice.

When it comes to portability, price, features, weight, usability, image adjustments ect. I personally believe it doesn’t get any better I hope this review helped and I hope you get one too and really enjoy it as much as I have. This camera is the best of all worlds. I say save the money from an FX camera and buy a really nice lens or two or three for that matter. Anyway here is the camera of my dreams and hopefully the camera in your bag shortly I promise you’ll love it, I know I do.

UPDATE: For all you HDR photographers look no further than the D300s you can easily create HDR photos by selecting “multiple exposures” and then setting up multi-step exposures for + or – EV per exposure and after the exposures are done voila you have a beautiful HDR photo. Keep in mind however: you will need a cable release (I recommend the MC-36) for the multiple exposures. OR take a few pictures at different exposures and overlay the photos in the in camera retouch menu and there you have it perfect HDR photos every time! Goodbye Photoshop (for HDR anyway)

The D300s and flash compatibility: I have noticed almost no one has talked about the fantastic flash compatibility with the D300s over many cameras. I figured it needed to be covered so here it goes: The D300s is a DREAM to work with when paired with any Nikon Speedlight Dynamic Lighting System. My favorite and most frequently used flash is the SB-600 Speedlight which can be wirelessly operated for NO ADDITIONAL CHARGE with the D300s, you just have to know what settings to change. Unlike the D3 which has to either have a hot shoe flash controller unit or an SB-800 ($900) the D300s can operate a nearly unlimited number of flashes wirelessly without any accessories. So if you are like so many other Nikon users and own an SB-600 just push and hold the “Zoom” and the “-” button at the same time until you get to custom menu and cycle through until you can adjust the squiggly Z shaped line and turn it to on and it defaults to channel 3 then either push and hold the “zoom” and “-” button to get out of the menu or just push the power button. Then go to the “Custom Setting Menu” (the pencil) on your D300s and change “e3″ “flash cntrl for built-in flash” to the Commander mode and set to channel 3, and pop up your built in flash and there you go…ABSOLUTELY FREE WIRELESS FLASH with perfect exposure compensation every time using a $250 flash unit. Hope it helps someone I know it helped me so have fun and remember to change it back to TTL flash when you’re done.
Nikon Digital Camera

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One Of The Best Lens For Portrait And Low Light Photography

March 5th, 2010 TommyJims No comments

Nikon 50mm f/1.8D AF
I don’t even know where to start. This lens produces sharp pictures and great color and contrast. And for its price (which seems to climb recently), it is worth more than 5 stars rating. I initially get this lens for low light action and sport photography (as this lens is famous for being one of the fastest lens together with its brother 50mm f/1.4), but I also found out that this lens is also perfect for portrait and other general purposes (macro etc). This is definitely a very versatile lens.

As much as I want to encourage everyone to buy this lens right away, let me mention some of the limitation that you would see (which I think will be helpful to go over before deciding to buy this lens):

First, being a prime lens, you will need to move your feet a lot to compose your picture. If you are used to zoom lens, don’t underestimate this limitation. It takes me a while to get used to it, and sometime I still find people looking at me wondering why I am moving forward and backwards. the good news is that most of the time, they don’t think I’m weird, but they are actually wondering if I’m a professional photographer.

Secondly, the focal range of 50mm, which is considered the normal lens and great for portrait lens. but on many DSLRs which is not full frame (unless you have a full frame Nikon DSLR like the D700 or D3, then 50mm is 50mm), this lens become a 75mm equivalent which is in the border of a short tele lens. I actually like the 75mm equivalent though I often have to move backwards when taking picture of a group of people.

Third, in some situation the autofocus might not able to focus (which is common for many other lens too). It is hard for the autofocus to lock when aiming at a wall that is one color (usually black or white), or on a clear sky (day or night). This kind of makes sense to me actually. IN these situations the AF assist light doesn’t help either so you can opt for manual focus or set the focus to infinity when you can’t find focus lock on scenic/landscape or sky photography. So far I don’t have many problems with the autofocus.

Sharpness increases as you stop down to f/2.2 or f/2.5. I actually use f/1.8 most of the time and the results are still nice. Personally, I’d rather use f/1.8 aperture settings than stopped down (e.g to f/2.8) and compensate with higher ISO setting which often gives me grainy picture. But if your object is not moving (static) then it is better to stop down to f/2.8 or more.

If you are wondering whether you should get a fast lens or a lens with VR (Vibration Reduction), here’s my take: In overall, VR does help a lot (as it will reduce camera shake) and will produce better/sharper picture than equivalent lens without VR (especially if the object is static). If the object is moving (sports/action) then VR feature alone might not help (depending on how fast the object is moving and how much light is available), and a fast lens often end up being a far better solution, even without VR feature as it will allow much faster shutter speed to freeze motion. Using tripod (and a remote) will substitute for the need of VR feature. In general I would recommend getting a fast lens with VR feature (and usually it is expensive) such as the 70-200 f/2.8 VR, but if one can only get for one or the other, then find out what do you want to use the lens for and then use the guideline mentioned here.

If you are wondering whether you will get the benefit of buying f/1.4 lens over a f/1.8 lens, just remember that the f/1.4 lens is about 60% faster than f/1.8 at its widest aperture setting. With this information, you can decide if the additional speed will justify the additional cost. The bokeh is nicer as well in f/1.4 lens but I think speed is usually the main factor in deciding whether to get the more expensive f/1.4 lens.

Here are the summary of pros and cons for this Nikon 50mm f/1.8D AF lens:

Pros:
1. Very fast (f/1.8)
2. Very sharp pictures (especially when stopped down to f/2.2, f/2.5 or more.)
3. Great for sport/action photography
4. Great for indoor and low light situation
5. Great for portrait
6. Bokeh is almost as good as many expensive Nikon tele-lens
7. Fast autofocus
8. Good for wedding photography (or no-flash event). However, if this is your main objective then you might want to get the 50mm f/1.4 version or 28-70mm f/2.8 lens)
9. 75mm equivalent which can be considered a short tele lens (I actually like the fact that it’s 75mm equivalent vs 50mm in DSLR. if you need more zoom, you can get the Nikon 85mm f/1.8, or the 70-200mm f/2.8 VR). If you have full frame DSLR(like the D3 or D700), then this #9 pros is not applicable.
10. Inexpensive

Cons:
1. Being prime lens, you need to move your feet a lot to adjust/compose
2. Autofocus issue on some situations (read detail above)
3. Plasticy build
4. Autofocus is not the most silent but very reasonable
5. 75mm equivalent with 1.5x multiplier on non full frame DSLR (many people find this is an odd range for normal lens. I actually like it). If you have full frame DSLR(like the D3 or D700), then this #5 cons is not applicable.
6. Autofocus does not work with D40, D40x, D60 and D5000. The newer 50mm f/1.4G AF-S lens or 35mm f/1.8G AF-S lens will autofocus with those cameras.

Bottom line: This lens is so versatile (and inexpensive) that I think everyone should own in addition to all the lenses that they already have. Being a very fast lens, it enables me to take pictures in low light (sport/action photography) that I otherwise wouldn’t be able to do.
After knowing its limitation, I would predict that 99% of you that decides to buy this lens will find this lens very useful. And if you decide that you don’t like it (which I think not more than 1%), I’m sure there will be a lot of people who wouldn’t mind buying it from you (with some discount of course).

Again, I would recommend everyone to get this lens. In some ways I can say that this lens makes me a better photographer.

Happy Photographing!

Sidarta Tanu
Nikkor Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras

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Camera Bag Purchasing How-to

March 4th, 2010 TommyJims No comments

Today we will look at the characteristics of the main types of camera bags.

After reading you should have a basic idea of which sort you need and what to look for.

The simplest camera bags are the camera sleeves. They are little more than a textile antistatic sock, in which you place your digital camera, but since sock sounds cheap they call it a sleeve, because people feel more comfortable touching a sleeve rather than a sock. The only thing that saves the sleeve from being a sock is the fact that it is open at both ends. And yes, that means that the sleeve isn’t even a bag at all.

They provide protection against scratches and keep your digital camera looking new and shiny for a longer time. Sleeves are ideal for when you plan to carry your camera in a suitcase, or a purse. That is, if you also have a larger camera carrier.

Point and Shoot cameras. Point and shoot means compact digital cameras that don’t need extensive setup before taking a picture. They have a lot of automatic functions and are more user friendly because of that. The camera bags that carry these point and shoot compacts are called camera pouches.

The camera pouch is more rigid than the sleeve, and thus there is more protection added. The extra protection comes at the cost of volume and feel, meaning the digital camera pouch is bulkier than the sleeve. The sleeve is THE recommended camera bag for compact digital cameras (without interchangeable lenses).

Holsters. Camera holsters are designed to hold one camera with a few accessories. They will usually have small pockets to keep extra batteries, extra memory and a camera cleaning cloth. Most holsters have a wide shoulder strap, and some models include belt loops.

When the size is right, holsters bags are very useful. They keep the camera in sight and accessible at all times. They are however impractical for sports which require a lot of mobility, like mountain climbing. However, because of thy are small, they are not so cumbersome.

The holsters can fit some of the largest fixed-lens cameras or a non-pro DSLR with a single general purpose lens. This is the most common type of camera bag for ultra-zooms. People who buy DSLR cameras and use them as fixed-lens cameras, can easily manage with a holster.

Most camera bag manufacturers produce holsters. A few also make holsters for DSLR cameras equipped with larger lens. The larger models of Lowepro camera bags also feature all-weather covers to protect against heavy rain. Click here for Lowepro camera bags.

The professional, or DSLR cameras have their own line of bags. They will hold mostly any dSLR camera on the market today and one or several lens. The bags have padded walls, more pockets for accessories, and usually a shoulder strap and many times a quick release buckle and zipper.

Finally, for the professional out there, there is the camera backpack. These are the highest quality carriers and can hold a lot of photographic gear, offering great protection.

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Nikon D5000 Digital SLR Camera Excellent For Entry, Mid-level, And Prosumer Users

March 2nd, 2010 TommyJims No comments

Nikon D5000 12.3 MP DX Digital SLR Camera with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR Lens and 2.7-inch Vari-angle LCD
This is my first DSLR camera, and I can say right off that it’s very easy to use and takes amazing photos. I chose the D5000 because a friend who is a professional photographer recommended it saying I should invest my money in lenses not the body. I believe this is true, but there is a consideration to make when purchasing the D5000, or the other Nikon entry-level cameras such as the D40/D40x/D60/D3000, and that has to do with the auto-focus motor.

The D5000, which tops Nikon’s entry-level line, does not include an auto-focus motor in the body, instead it relies on a “silent wave” auto-focus mechanism in the lens (AF-S). This is supposed to be very quiet and fast, though I don’t know if that’s true compared to the screw-drive motors used in other camera bodies. It’s also supposed to be more cost effective and allow for a smaller/lighter camera body, but again I’m not sure if that is quite true or exactly why Nikon chose this option for their entry level line (if anybody knows more about this please feel free to comment). However, this option will limit users who already have a collection of Nikon AF lenses (not AF-S), as well as those purchasing a Nikon for the first time. The AF lenses will work fine but have to be manually focused. That said, more experienced users would probably not be purchasing an entry-level model; a more appropriate starting point would be the D90.

So as far as lens compatibility? The first lens I sought to purchase was a fast prime (FFL) unit for indoor/low-light and portraits. I looked at the low-priced 50mm f/1.8D AF, but the auto-focus is not compatible. Same with the faster and more expensive 50mm f/1.4D AF, as well as the 35mm f/2D AF. Also, no luck with the Tamron or Sigma FFL units, though I did see some Tamron zoom lenses with AF-S compatibility. I became very concerned that my options would be severely restricted, and perhaps I would need to return the camera and upgrade to the D90 or go with the Canon T1i. However, I discovered the 50mm f/1.4G SIC SW, which came out last year, and also the more moderately priced 35mm f/1.8G AF-S DX which currently sells for about $200. That unit came out earlier this year (I haven’t chosen yet). I also went to the Nikon homepage, and noted that 30 of the 50 current auto-focus lenses listed were AF-S, so while the options are limited, the average non-professional user shouldn’t have a problem finding an appropriate lens for the occasion – including many professional level models. I also suspect that Nikon will include AF-S in more if not all future auto-focus lenses. Users will find the least options with Nikon’s wide-angel, standard, and telephoto models. Most of the super telephoto, wide-angle zoom, standard zoom, high powered zoom and close up lenses include AF-S.

PROS of the D5000

1. Has virtually the same image sensor as the D90 and D300. This puts the D5000 in good company, and one could argue it’s more of a prosumer or mid-level class camera than its entry-level predecessor, the D60. It’s almost a D90, but just lacking of a few options and the D90’s ruggedness. The difference is about $300.

2. Flip LCD; I considered the Canon EOS Rebel T1i, and while both the Canon and Nikon have their advantages, both are very similar with the exception of Nikon’s flip LCD. I consider this more than just a novelty. It not only protects the screen but is practical in some situations, such as shooting photos overhead. The D90 does not have this function either.

3. Easy to use; I got fantastic pictures right off using the auto mode as well as the pre-set scene selections. However, users are not restricted to these options and experienced photographers should enjoy the camera alike. Just like the D90, the D5000 has scene modes on the dial, but it also has 13 additional modes from the menu which adds benefit to novice users. I tried the night landscape and sunset with excellent results.

4. The lens is very good for a kit, and includes Vibration Reduction (VR). The lens by itself currently sells on Amazon for about $185 new, as appose to the model without VR which is currently priced at $110. Users may also want to pick up a fixed lens and/or higher power zoom, but the kit lens should be fine for most users. That said, I’m sure this camera could be taken to another level with the right lens.

5. Long Battery Life

6. Compact / Light weight

CONS

1. Price; the D5000 may be priced a little high for an “entry-level” camera, but again it’s $300 less than the D90, and in many ways comparable. It’s also slightly less than the Canon EOS Rebel T1i.

2. Ruggedness; some may say it’s a little “toyish” with the plastic finish, and being light (which isn’t a bad thing), but overall it looks sharp and is well built. I handled the D90 and some of the pro lines, they felt a little more rugged, but of course are designed for more abuse (and cost much more).

3. AF-S auto-focus (see above)

Bottom line, if you’re looking for a great camera with the ability to produce real quality photos, but you don’t want to spend a small fortune, the D5000 is a great choice.
Excellent for entry

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